Thursday 4 March 2010

On Harold Drasdo's 'New Lands for Old Hands'

Given that the start of Longlands is not very hard, as Harold said, I've always half-wondered why the 'Primitive Route' on Cloggy's West Buttress was not the rising traverse across the foot of all the major slab routes, above the Western Terrace overhangs. It seems to be the obvious exploratory route to provide access to all the others, and getting on to the toe of the slabs perhaps less hard, by exactly the right line, than has traditionally been assumed.

By the time Cloggy was pioneered all the climbers interested were leading VS/HVS, and looking for major epics at that standard, so attention was diverted to Longlands, Pigott's and the rest. But if the foot of Great Slab can be accessed other than by its normal first pitch and at an easier standard, then surely we have 'Great Slab by the Indirect Start' at Severe standard throughout?

I leave the question of whether there is a devious and unnoticed easy exit up right, above the start of Slanting Slab, to somebody who knows the crag better than I do, only noting that such a route, obviously, 'avoids all the major challenges' as far as possible, but would still be pretty serious even at Severe standard because of there being no easier alternatives other than abseiling off, with some difficulty. I prefer the Great Slab by Indirect Start concept: but if there's a straightforward sequence of moves up the bottom edges of the slabs from Longlands, surely numerous parties must have climbed it at some time or another, maybe in order to switch routes because of dodgy weather?

I am not writing this as an expert on Cloggy as I'm a lifelong bumbly climber and never felt drawn to the place except from idle curiosity. But if I were looking to fulfil Harold's prescription, this would be the combination of pitches I'd be investigating. I would hope to find a line where every move had been climbed many times before, but not in the proposed combination of moves and pitches, as Harold said. Such a route would hardly be 'classic', but it would prove Harold's point. Does it exist?